Report: Patent leather and fur on Viva Vox FW 2013

Look At Me continues to talk about the shows of Russian Fashion Weeks. We already talked about Leonid Alexeev, Alena Akhmadullina, Bessarion and visited the backstage of the Ruban show.

Photographer: Ivan Kaidash

Text: Rita Zubatova

This time, photographer Ivan Kaydash and editor Rita Zubatova went to the show of Oleg Ovsiev Viva Vox, a brand known for its masterful work with the most complex materials: fur, leather and crystals.

Viva Vox is the second time they organize a show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, but on a separate site. The decision is correct: the basic atmosphere does not dispose to the perception of the beautiful. Going into the majestic building of The Ritz-Carlton, we are heading for backstage. It’s still quiet here - the brand’s team puts shoes on a massive wedge in the corner, the models discuss that they had to walk and not like that: “I remember there was a rise of 15 centimeters without a platform. I cried for three days, then I got up and went.”

The conversation is interrupted when one of the girls is called for a hairstyle. Today it is a neat bunch at the back and a long fringe falling out from under the cap fez. "She will cover her eyes a little, referring us to Hollywood actresses of the 1940s," explains Asia Ilyina, a leading stylist for Oribe.

The brand team begins to unpack the clothes: an hour is left before the show. We see silk dresses with a diagonal cage, repeated on beige shoes and pantyhose in a net, which could turn into the top of vulgarity, is excellent for Viva Vox. Next winter, and in general, expect comeback sexuality. Marc Jacobs takes the girls in nightie to the podium, Miuccia Prada opens the models with one shoulder, and Oleg Ovsiev shows fetish prints and patent leather. For a Russian designer to be in a global context, and not to catch up with him through the season is an achievement.

Make-up matches the mood of the show - it is densely colored eyelashes and blueberry lips. “We thought that this time our heroine is a girl who can afford a lot not only in clothes, but also in make-up. We wanted the make-up to look deliberately deliberately,” explains the chief make-up artist of Guerlain Natalia Stanevich, and already preparing to enter the podium.

The collection is conventionally divided into two blocks. In the first - silk dresses and trouser suits, which we talked about above. Good ones with a geometric pattern and a train at the back are alarming - with a floral pattern and crystals. On models, everything looks good, but clients are at risk of adding age.

We are closer to the second block. These are the things of the season: neoprene jackets and skirts with lacquered leather inserts, elegant dresses with basques and charming ones with fluffy fur. Bonus - warm outerwear. It is always nice when Russian designers remember what country we live in: on a particularly frosty evening, you don’t remember the hated down jacket, but the glittering sheepskin coat Viva Vox.