Report: Marni SS 2014 Show
Our fashion editor went to Milan to attend shows and a trade show. Today he tells what happened on yesterday's backstage and Marni defile.
Liza
kologreeva
At eight o'clock on Sunday morning on the backstage you expect to see sleepy models - it seems they write about this in every second report from the shows. But no: Malayka Firth and Julia Nobis are passing by, a pair of girls depicting dancers, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni gives a smile to those around her. The day starts well. TV presenters from Asia and journalists from Italy are flocking to the tables with fruit and coffee. The backstage of Marni looks almost perfect: they dye and brush in two spacious rooms, dress them up - in a giant hall at a distance.
Team M.A.C. Cosmetics at this show is commanded by makeup artist Tom Pesho. He says he wanted to create a natural make-up with a twist, so he decided to apply flickering gray shadows to his eyebrows. Pesho interviews every five minutes, so he paints one girl, and carefully checks the rest - apparently, his team copes as well as possible, because he didn’t send any models for revision. Hairstyles - with the effect of wet hair, traditional for Marni shows.
Recently, a share in Marni was acquired by Renzo Rosso, who managed to make even Maison Martin Margiela commercial and, with a stretch, Viktor & Rolf, therefore there is reason to worry about the brand. On rails hang kimonos with voluminous elongated trousers, bombers and skirts, fully decorated with stones, and dresses made of coarse cotton. They are complemented by visors and iconic for the house, massive earrings and necklaces, and flip-flops and platform sandals are offered as shoes. Consuelo Castiglioni's fans can be calm.
The designer on the backstage is supported not only by her team - adult tanned Italians in sandals with socks - but also by the family. Here is her husband and CEO, Gianni, and daughter and head of the online division of Carolina. At one moment, Consuelo Castiglioni retires from work and takes on his hands, apparently, his grandson, who may well take the place of his grandmother after 30 years. Most Italian companies are built by families and still keep on families, such as Missoni. After talking with his family, Consuelo returns to his assistants, who in four hands steam off the red dresses and correct the sparkles on the black skirts.
The rehearsal of the show begins: the models stand next to each other, the producers grab some of the line-up and put them in another place. I notice that the show opens and closes Pauline King. The girl is notable for starting this season, and right away with Jil Sander and Prada. There are many Russians and Ukrainians in the casting: Irina Liss and redheads Ira Kravchenko and Lera Tribel. Photographers from Style.com and Vogue.it are distracting from the rehearsal of the models: they are all friends with the girls and every now and then ask them to take a picture and help hold the reflector.
Actually, Marni arranges two shows: the first for the press, the second - for distinguished guests. On the street, it is impossible not to encounter Scott Schumann: you will not wish the enemy to feel his appreciative glance either. Tommy Ton, his colleague, is running to the crowd of guests. He runs past and retires at a cafe to Brianboy and Suzy Lau, who discuss something so fucking sophisticated. This time in the first row of the show there are guests who can only be recognized by a person who has been in fashion for a long time. From this series, the editor-in-chief of the Russian Numéro, Andre Leon Telli, takes pictures with a pair of young female fans. Defile begins without delay under the cover of Sid Vicious on "My Way" by Frank Sinatra (the second show was without music: it turns out that problems with sound can happen even at Marni). To applaud Consuelo Castiglioni begin before the end of the show - a gesture that speaks for itself.