Magic cream: Can decorative cosmetics replace skin care
Text: Daria Burkova
In the last century, decorative cosmetics was simply decorative cosmetics: dense, pigmented and even not too resistant - about skin care and the speech did not go. Thus was born the myth that makeup spoils the skin; this idea is still sitting in the minds of many, not giving a quiet life and beauty. Since the days of the first solid carcasses and talc powder, a lot has changed, including the attitude of customers to what should be decorative cosmetics.
Now we want not just a perfect foundation that will last all day, not to change its color, blend with the skin and at the same time make it as beautiful as possible - this goes without saying. We want a foundation that will additionally take care of the skin, replacing the face cream and sunscreen, which will save us two layers of makeup without sacrificing beauty. We asked - and we were heard. Infinite BB-, CC-, DD-, EE-creams that promise everything at once entered the market: correction of the face tone and skin texture, and also moisturizing, nutrition, redness removal, protection from free radicals, sun rays and even radiation of smartphones screens. . Soon joined and heavy artillery. Manufacturers of luxury are required to add caring components to foundation creams, lipsticks, blush and even face powder: silk extracts, plant extracts, vitamins C and E, and even the notorious hyaluronic acid.
American cosmetologist Nicholas Perricon went the furthest away, and he released a whole collection of decorative cosmetics No Makeup Makeup under his own brand Perricone MD. Her philosophy is inconspicuous makeup and complete skin care. Dr. Perricon provided tonal creams, concealers, rouge, highlighters, bronzers, eye shadows, lip gloss, lipstick and even mascara with the same ingredients that his care cosmetics are famous for.
So, in the line for high-grade make-up there were neuropeptides, vitamin C ester, alpha-lipoic acid, DMAE, hyaluronic acid and, of course, sunscreen filters. “A truly modern make-up is no longer just a make-up with caring functions. It is a make-up integrated into an intensive full skin care,” says Elena Kuznitskaya, leading cosmetologist of the brands EviDenS de Beauté and Perricone MD. Interestingly, the same Foundation Foundation serum is praised by fans of “invisible” makeup. It is possible that it actually performs its caring functions, but everyone agrees that those who need the ability to hide pigmentation and unevenness from the tonal tool will not do it: the density of coverage is very modest.
The presence of SPF has become a prerequisite for modern decorative cosmetics. Now not only tonal creams promise protection from the sun, but finally concealers, lipsticks, rouge, eye shadows and bronzers. But is it effective? In an age of universal insanity in skin care and peeling, we often do not need to put a thick layer of cosmetics on our face - everything is so good. It is only necessary to even out a little skin tone with a drop of tonal serum and add brightness to the face with other products. Alas, the minimum amount of funds that we apply (the issue of uniformity of coverage will be left behind the scenes) cannot fully provide full protection from the sun even at the level of nominal SPF 10. This indispensable step, alas, cannot be excluded, except only by applying a thick layer of BB-cream with SPF 50 on the face - but then what kind of "light" coating can we talk about?
As for the caring components, each brand includes in the decorative cosmetics the sign of care for its brand, or else it produces a foundation in the same line with caring means. Such products are in Shiseido (Future Solution LX foundation cream), Chanel (Sublimage Le Teint), Giorgio Armani Beauty (Crema Nuda), Dior (Capture Totale) and Sensai. The latter adds an extract of Japanese imperial silk to all its means. As you can see, all these products are from the age lines of brands targeted at a specific audience.
The rest of the serious care promise except that CC-and BB-creams - full-fledged tonal tools still complement it. For example, the collagen, peptides, niacinamide and a whole complex of antioxidants are part of the American best-selling IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC Cream SPF 50+. With this tool you can really eliminate the face cream, making a bet only on the serum. Most of all, we were lucky with our lips: manufacturers have always tried to make the composition of products for them as nutritious as possible, and now the addition of mango oil, vitamins C and E and some other patented complex is an almost documented rule. In fact, such lipstick is a well-pigmented balm, and many brands have long learned how to make money that can be used to leave a bright color on their lips, and to provide reliable hydration and nourishment. With other means, things are not so simple.
It must be remembered that by the word "care" we often mean the use of products with a sufficient concentration of active ingredients: their chemical characteristics and the presence of enhancer substances influence the final formula of the product. The caring and decorative products still have different functions: in the first case, we choose compositions that can both penetrate the derma to the maximum possible depth, and improve the quality of the skin in the epidermis, in the second, we look for pigmented textures that are good (and without harm) are kept on the surface of the skin.
It is difficult to imagine that a single product performs both tasks without losing the main “decorative” qualities: durability, density and comfort of the coating. Manufacturers themselves today declare that a new decorative cosmetics is not a replacement for caring products, but only a nice addition. “With such a makeup, over time, it can solve problems that it masks, for example, eliminate redness, improve complexion. But you need to understand that it will never perform the full care function,” says Maria Perova, Sensai trainer.
Sergey Khachaturian, a colleague from Shiseido, agrees with her. According to him, care components are added to decorative cosmetics in order to complement the effect of basic care and to improve the comfort of the texture of makeup products. Advertising interests also play a role. “Each manufacturer tries to highlight its product. If there is an opportunity to make the formula not only bright and sustainable, but also caring - this is an additional plus,” says the coach Shiseido. “For the sake of fairness, cosmetic companies are testing the performance of caring components in make-up and see their effectiveness, but it is incomparable with the work of basic skin care products. "
It is important for the buyer to decide on priorities: if you plan to place all possible hopes on one serum, your project will most likely fail, and you will not be able to abandon standard daily care - you should not trust enticing advertising and it is better to stay on reliable separation of makeup and care. On the other hand, those who are worried about perpetual dehydration, blush with oils and amino acids will please more than the usual dry product or liquid containing glycerol: they do not draw moisture from the skin and do not turn into crumbling plaster during the day.
In any case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to provide complete skin care with a single foundation. Nevertheless, in combination with the usual care products for the makeup “two in one” are able to serve a good service: at least, they already know how to coexist well with proper care - and this is still a new level of comfort.
Photo: Sephora, It Cosmetics, Ile de Bote, Sensai, Bobbi Brown, Estée Lauder, Aizel, Kiehl's, Tom Ford