How to care for curly hair
Sasha Sheveleva
Curls like many but few know what labor is worth keeping them under control. Wonderzine figured out the features of curly hair and selected five products, without which basic care is inconceivable.
About the structure of curly hair
Because of its structure (loosely and unevenly adjacent cuticle scales), curly hair is drier than straight, absorbs moisture worse, tends to break down and fluff. Therefore, care for them - is primarily a thorough and sufficient moisture.
Before proceeding to the choice of means, it is necessary to understand the terminology. American and European brands use the curl classification system proposed by the stylist Andre Walker. According to her curly hair can be divided into several types: wavy, curly and spiral. They differ in curl pattern (wave, S-shaped curl or "small demon"), porosity, density, thickness, and therefore can respond differently to the same product. Each type is divided into subtypes (A, B, C) depending on the intensity of the helix. You need to know your curl, because on the jars themselves and in reviews of them it is customary to indicate who the product is suitable for ("an ideal indelible conditioner for owners of 3A").
Vladislav Tkachev, Leading trichologist of the brand DSD de Luxe
Curly hair usually has an oval cross section. They are durable, but porous and prone to traumatization, including for anatomical reasons: curly hair at the bend sites has areas of narrowed diameter, which, even after straightening, retain a weakened structure.
For hair with severe damages, conditioners, balsams and masks, used to the best of extent, are more beneficial for shampoos. There is a large group of people for whom “washing” without surfactants (shampoos) can be sufficient, but such a method is not for everyone. Inadequate washing of the scalp leads to sebum accumulation, and this is the favorite nutrient medium for the fungi of the Malassezia genus, so itching may be aggravated, dandruff may appear, dermatitis and bacterial infections, especially staphylococcal infections, may worsen. If you still really want to try coughing, you need to apply lotions and tonics that contain cleansing and antiseborrheic components (preferably with a small amount of alcohol or completely alcohol-free) - rubbing their scalp may well replace washing with shampoo.
Modern shampoos, even sulphate, contain, along with surfactants, also a large number of emollients and moisturizers, co-surfactants. It is better to choose those in which there is keratin, collagen, ceramides, phospholipids - high-quality sulphate shampoos do not pose any threat to damaged hair and can even strengthen them. Curly hair, like any other, needs to be washed as it gets dirty, and it is better to comb it after the conditioner to reduce the risk of traumatization (before that it would be good to apply a keratin-based moisturizing spray).
5 indispensable products for curly hair
Sulfate-free shampoo
Regular mass-market shampoo contains heavy chemical compounds (sulphates), which wash out natural oils and moisturizing oils from the cuticle. If straight, especially greasy hair, can still withstand such treatment, then it is contraindicated for curls: low-fat, they bristle, ruffled, stand on end like a lion cub.
Air conditioner for washing
The author of the book "Curly Girl: The Handbook" Lorraine Massey has come up with gentle ways of washing curly hair, one of which is called "co-washing" ("co-washing" or "no-poo"). This shampooing is not shampooing, but conditioner that does not contain silicones and alcohols. The conditioner is applied to damp hair and within five to seven minutes is thoroughly rubbed into the scalp and along the entire length of the hair, and then washed off. Then the conditioner is applied and washed off again, as after normal shampooing. Hair can take several weeks to get used to this method of cleansing, and coaching is not suitable for everyone, but it can help bring back to life dead and tortured by chemistry or dyeing hair.
Conditioner after washing
Most conditioners contain silicones that add shine to hair. The problem is that the only way to wash them off is to use shampoos with sulfates. Therefore, curly girls who use only sulfate-free shampoos, it is better to use conditioners without silicones.
A haircut
On curly hair split ends look more noticeable, because the hair immediately begins to puff up in different directions. Therefore, every four to five months, the tips should be trimmed. Unfortunately, most Russian hairdressers do not understand at all how to work with curls: they should never be cut with a razor and thinning them (thinning). The perfect haircut of curly hair is done on a dry head: only so will the hairdresser be able to understand what the shape will look like after the hair has dried and rises.
Indelible conditioner
Leave-in conditioners are used in the intervals between shampooing to moisturize, smooth the curl and shape the curl. Indelible conditioners, unlike creams, oils and gels, do not make hair heavier and can be an alternative to styling products: they can be applied to dry or wet hair.
Deep conditioner
In addition to daily moisturizing curls need additional weekly makeup. For this purpose, so-called deep conditioners (deep conditioning) have been developed, which are able to penetrate the very base of the hair shaft. After using them, the hair becomes unusually soft (as in childhood) and decorated in crisp curls.
Daria Kozachenko, founder of beauty blog Time4Beauty
For curly hair, the most important point is really the right moisturizing and, perhaps, a good hairdresser who knows how to work with curly hair and does not offer to constantly pull it out. And if the search for a suitable hairdresser can be delayed, then moisturizing is easier to handle.
The easiest way to cope with curls is to use products from lines for curly hair. Shampoo, conditioner and mask, if necessary, are likely to remove the most active fluffiness, moisturize the hair and facilitate further styling. I like the Ouidad and Deva Curl brands most of all (its founder Lorraine Massey has a whole concept of curly hair care and stunning salons where the masters know literally everything about curly hair), Ojon (moisturizing series), Rene Furterer and one of the recent discoveries - Oribe. It is important to understand what type of curling hair you have (density, stiffness, type of curl - there are some nuances). Wen and Deva Curl have some good tools for koshing and variations on the theme. It is important to remember that the air conditioner was silicone free, otherwise the hair will turn into nasty icicles.
Next - styling. A typical mistake is to take too many styling products, then the hair becomes heavier and it is impossible to achieve the desired effect. Be patient and experiment, as there are many styling products for locks: skins, gels, creams. As for the hairdresser, then probably the easiest way to find it is to look closely at girls with curly hair, whose styling and haircut you like, and feel free to ask for contacts.