Paris Fashion Week: Kenzo, Celine, Hermes, Givenchy, John Galliano Shows
From September 25 to October 3, Fashion Week takes place in Paris. Look At Me continues to talk about the most notable shows of PFW, demonstrate the mindboards of designers and collect comments from industry professionals. On the fourth day, the Kenzo, Chloe, Hermes and Givenchy shows.
Kenzo
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| Californians Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, who debuted last year with a collection for the Kenzo house, are the founders of Opening Ceremony, a New York boutique |
| In the 1970s, Kenzo Takada, the founder of the brand, opened Kenzo Jungle Japan in Paris - a boutique that brought great popularity to his fashionable home. |
| Kenzo's Takada Style House is a mix of Japanese street style, Parisian chic, ethnic finds and tropical prints. |
Mudbord Kenzo
Kenzo House Archives |
Utilitarianism |
Jungle |
What critics think about the Kenzo collection
Nicole Phelps Style.com
The most pleasant thing in the whole collection is lack of pretentiousness.
Mark Holgate, Vogue.com
This new brand of the era of globalism originates in the 21st century, the century of the Internet and digital technologies, and not from the stale obsolete notion of "ethnic influence" that other designers have tried in every way to keep in Kenzo
Luke Leitch, The daily telegraph
In less than two years, Lim and Leon have managed to turn Kenzo from a toothless sleeping tiger into a brand that fashionistas hunt for with enthusiasm around the world.
Celine
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| One of the most memorable parts in the collection were shoes and sandals made from black, yellow and red fur, with heels and without |
| The soundtrack for the show was Depeche Mode Useless. |
| "This collection is about unity, beauty, friendship and travel," said creative director Phoebe Philo after the show |
Mudbord Celine
Negligence |
Helmut Lang Style |
Monochrome |
What critics think about the Celine collection
Jo-Ann Furniss, Style.com
Definitely, this collection has become a new chapter in the history of Phoebe Philo, and you can be sure that it came from real life.
Hermes
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| The French fashion house was founded by the Erme family in 1837 and specialized in making the best horse carriage designs for crews. |
| Before taking the post of Hermes creative director, Christoph Lemar was responsible for the line of women's clothing in Christian Lacroix, produced collections under his own brand, and then worked for a long time at Lacoste |
Mudbord Hermes
Bauhaus |
Mosaic print and Asia |
Creativity Joseph Albers |
What critics think about the Hermes collection
Emily Holt, Vogue.com
If we are to find fault, then only to the organization: the format of the show clearly did not correspond to the modern spirit of the collection
Tim blanks, Style.com
Christoph Lemaire, an avid traveler himself, would seem to be ideally suited to refresh the concept of the house, but the collection did not have a stunning effect. Perhaps the stumbling block is the focus on luxury traditions at home.
John galliano
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| "Unlike John (Galliano - approx. Ed.), I am much more interested in modern trends and trends," - said Bill Geyten on the backstage of the show |
| The press notes that the early guests could catch the final rehearsals just before the show began. |
Mudbord John Galliano
Hyper volumes and draperies |
Japan and architecture |
Graphic print |
What critics think about the John Galliano collection
Alex Veblen, Style.com
Something was definitely missing, joie de vivre - the joys of life. Heyten was so overwhelmed by the search for novelty that he accidentally forgot what had always been the heart of this brand: character
Jessica Bumpus, Vogue uk
Despite the explosions of proportions and silhouettes, the collection turned out to be quite clean and muffled.
Givenchy
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| “Sensuality, cleanliness and severity” - this is how Riccardo Tisci commented on his collection on the backstage of the show |
| Sky Ferreira, Natalya Vodyanova, and fashion director of Tank Magazine, Caroline Issa, were among the many fans of the brand who gathered in the first row. |
| The musical background to the show was the simultaneous performance of organ music by Matias Lecomt and the mix of Berlin's Discodromo DJs at a considerable distance from each other, which created an echo effect and carried the idea of a dialogue of the past with the present |
Mudbord Givenchy
Givenchy house archives |
Bishops and Catholic rites |
Creativity Carlo Molly |
What critics think about the Givenchy collection
Jessica Bumpus, Vogue uk
It was the right balance between femininity and severity, the entire collection gave just as much a sense of freedom as the prohibition
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Ten fashionista under an umbrella, a Japanese with two scarves and other guests of Paris Fashion Week