Balaclava, helmets and hoods: Weatherproof accessories for bad weather
We tell about the trends from the podium, which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. After the last weeks of fashion, it became obvious that balaclavas and removable hoods are an obvious hit next fall-winter. But no one keeps waiting for so long, especially since the Russian weather in many regions does not indulge.
How it all began
Many items of clothing that fall under this heading, invented in wartime as part of the equipment. According to legend, the British soldiers made a hat that protects from wind and rain during the Crimean War - as a result, the balaclavas were named after the city of the same name. Although the variations of the headdress, which completely hides the head, but leaves the eyes open, must have existed before this: no wonder one of the names of the balaclava is “helmet”.
The balaclava received wide distribution later - for example, athletes began to use hats made of fleece and high-tech materials. Many people hook them under a tight helmet during motorcycle races, skiing, snowboarding and backpacking. In general, often helmets are worn by those who do not want to freeze - not for nothing that their main audience until recently were children. In other professions, balaclava helps to preserve anonymity: they are worn by special units and the police (as well as robbers). At the same time, such a headdress became associated with a protest: at rallies all over the world it is easy to notice people hiding their appearance under black masks. A bright balaclava became a symbol of political struggle thanks to the grouping Pussy Riot.
Why are back in fashion
Russian designer and stylist Arthur Lomakin began producing knitted balaclavas and hoods made of leather as early as 2010 as part of the creative association Forget Me Not. His brand never showed large collections and became known for capsules, which included three to five things - including hats. So the designer was ahead of his time, because next fall there will be balaclava everywhere.
After Calvin Klein showed under the patronage of Raf Simons in New York, the buyers have no doubts left: knitted balaclavas and removable hoods will be the main accessories of the next season. On the podium they were worn with a wide variety of things: from a “working” jumpsuit to delicate transparent dresses. The last two seasons, long-time fans and the press constantly criticized Simons, saying that the visionary, who had never been in the wake of commerce, turned into a machine for the production of hits. Indeed, from those who want to buy those Cossacks and the yellow fur coat in polyethylene, there was no end, but it seems that this only underlines the designer’s ability to look to the future - even the closest one. The designer’s genius is that he is able to do things that are relevant here and now, and the best moment to return balaclava is not to imagine. And it's not about climate change.
The desire for anonymity, the search for protection and the desire to dissolve in the crowd - the predictable behavior of the citizen, preoccupied with problems in the spirit of the “Black Mirror”. Over the past few years, we have experienced several of these reaction microtrends - for the same reasons, Hoodie and Oversize Cut have become popular again. True, unlike hooded sweatshirts, a balaclava seems to be too noticeable an accessory to be worn en masse - but time will tell how it will actually be.
While China is preparing a system for the social assessment of citizens (regularly violating the law? Sorry, it is forbidden to travel), the life of people from Western countries is also becoming more transparent for the state and others. Tracking systems, social networks and outdoor cameras subconsciously cause the desire to hide - even if we understand that there is little point in this.
What to wear
Calvin Klein was not the only brand that showed balaclava and removable hoods in the autumn-winter collections of 2018-2019. The most interesting thing was how classic brands work with this accessory. Salvatore Ferragamo used large removable hoods as the main stylistic device of the show - they were demonstrated with dresses and capes. This output is an example of the fact that the hood and the balaclava can be worn both with outerwear (which is perhaps more familiar), and with regular shirts and dresses.
The hoods of Lanvin and Marine Serre were tightly fitted and resembled a hijab; we have already seen similar models in the Russian J.Kim brand, which was inspired by Korean divers. These hats look great with jackets, denim jackets and sweaters. They create a non-dull, multi-layered image, and only one minus - for those who have long and thick hair, wearing a fitting accessory will not be very convenient.
Christian Dior did not stay aside: their hood has a complex shape and it looks like a hybrid of a cap and a balaclava. An unusual removable headdress was also shown by Martin Margiela - this is something between a removable hood and a Panama with fields. Another interesting example is the restarted Slovak brand Nehera. Their image with a hood is notable for a combination of different textures and colors, sustained in gray tones. At the two most discussed shows of the season there were also balaclava. The laconic Chanel knitted hat was combined with weighty pearl beads and gold boots, and the Gucci headdress, resembling a mask of Mexican wrestlers of luchadoras, with a noticeable brooch and a scarf.
If you still doubt and consider the balaclava too bright accessory, not adapted to real life, look at the release of the heading "Wardrobe" with producer Lisa Kolosova. The girl combines it with a down jacket and jeans and looks great at the same time.
Photo:Kate Street Picture Company, J. Kim, Nehera, Nina Donis, Forget Me Not / Svetlana Tanakina
