The skin in which I live: What to do with acne
If you experience periodic inflammation or acne, You probably have repeatedly heard the tips on care, good and not so. Nevertheless, to understand how to care for the skin with inflammation, still want. The author of the Telegram channel, Don't touch my face, Adel Miftakhova, made for us the rules of behavior with acne - so that the treatment is milder, and there are fewer consequences.
Determine the stage of acne
Usually there are three stages: light, medium and heavy. The light stage is from a couple of dozens of black spots and white subcutis and up to a dozen sore acne. Medium - many black spots, subcutaneous comedones, inflamed acne, and several cystic acne. Severe - a lot of inflamed and cystic acne.
In the first case, you can cope with home remedies, in the second - too, but if you can, it is better to visit a dermatologist. In the third case, you should not even try to cope on your own: there is a risk of harm to yourself. The treatment of severe acne in Moscow is specialized by the TsIDK, Petrovka-Beauty, and Remedy Lab clinics. Of course, there are many other clinics and specialists, and if you have found yours, be sure to share with those who are not yet: good dermatologists, guided by evidence-based medicine, are rare.
Find factors you can influence
Now the only cause of acne is called increased production of hormones of the androgen group (which affect the quality and amount of sebum) or increased sensitivity to them of sebaceous glands. Of course, it is impossible to cope with this independently. But there may be other reasons that you can try to cope with.
The first one is nutrition. To date, there is no strict relationship between nutrition and acne, but there is evidence that cow's milk and foods with a high glycemic index can affect their appearance: sugar and white bread. And if you suffer from acne, it makes sense to try for several weeks either to exclude these products from the diet completely, or to reduce their consumption to a minimum. Not the fact that it will help, but it definitely does not hurt. The second is the makeup itself. Creams may contain ingredients that clog pores and trigger acne. A may contain irritating and allergenic components, which can also cause inflammation. Therefore, if there are doubts, then try to figure out exactly which means cause such a reaction.
It is necessary to pay attention to everything related to the skin. Shampoos, hair balms, styling products, hand and body creams can cause acne, because both hair and hands touch the face. If acne is localized just in places that you often touch and apply cosmetics to, it makes sense to check these remedies. Another obvious reason is bed linen and especially pillowcases. They accumulate sebum, remnants of cosmetics and styling, and all this can increase the number of acne. To avoid this, you should change the pillowcase two or three times a week.
Select active ingredients
Acne appears when thick sebum accumulates in the pores, mixed with dead cells. In the pores, bacteria P. acnes always live, which do not reproduce with the access of air. But when it is time to clog, the access of air is stopped, and the bacteria begin to multiply, to which the body reacts with the production of pus and inflammation. All these processes can be controlled with cosmetics.
Retinoids and salicylic acid help from excess sebum.
From excess dead cells - AHA-acids, salicylic, azelaic acid, enzyme peels, peels, rolls.
Benzoyl peroxide and surface antibiotics deal with bacteria and inflammation.
In order to gain control over acne, you need to consider several factors. The most important is the presence or absence of inflammation. If there is no inflammation, that is, there are no large red acne and cysts, then anti-inflammatory drugs should not be used. But if there is inflammation, then anti-inflammatory drugs should not be used alone, but together with retinoids and / or peels. Benzoyl peroxide is quite aggressive, and therefore it is better to apply it only on acne-affected skin and avoid healthy ones. And the remaining ingredients should be used on the entire face or body, if acne is there.
Think of how you will combine them.
In treating acne, the less is more approach is best. Acne treatments, no matter how expensive and effective, can irritate and dry the skin. Therefore, it is important to combine them correctly so as not to harm yourself.
If you use several anti-acne products, then try to apply them either at different times of the day or on different days. For example, in the morning - acids, in the evening - retinoids. Or this: in one evening - benzoyl peroxide, in the other - acid. Make sure that the skin does not have strong irritations, and her condition does not worsen over time.
Consider supportive care
Irritated, dehydrated and over-dried skin heals worse and copes less with protective functions. Therefore, along with the active ingredients, it is imperative to use basic cosmetics that compensate for the aggressive action of acids and retinoids. Means for washing better pick soft and non-alkaline. Aggressive agents destroy the protective barrier of the skin and shift the acidity of the skin, and all this allows bacteria to cause inflammation more actively.
Acne treatment moisturizers are definitely needed, and it is good if they contain ingredients that support the skin's protective barrier: ceramides, cholesterol, omega-3 fatty acids, and jojoba oil. Soothing ingredients like allantoin, niacinamide, zinc will also help and speed healing.
Remember sun protection
In the presence of acne, it is important to protect from the sun. Partly because many anti-acne products increase skin sensitivity to the sun. And partly due to the fact that ultraviolet provokes inflammation in the skin: with acne, additional inflammation is hardly needed. Quite often, sunscreens themselves provoke acne. But there are those who do not, the easiest way to find them in special lines of "pharmacy" brands and Korean brands.
How to cope with single acne
Single inflamed acne can be treated pointwise, so as not to irritate healthy skin. But it is better not to use products that are dried. Dermatologist René Rulo says that the skin dried with alcohol prevents acne from healing, because it prevents oxygen from entering the pores. Therefore, the point means is better to choose such that they relieve inflammation and kill bacteria, but they are not dried. Great help patches for acne. They are of two types. Hydrocolloid absorb pus and they need to stick on those acne, which has already formed a white "head". And patches with active ingredients are applied salicylic acid or tea tree oil, which reduce inflammation and kill bacteria.
Is it possible to squeeze acne
In fact, it is possible to squeeze acne, but you need to follow certain rules. Otherwise there is a risk of getting post-acne - post-traumatic pigmentation and scars, which are difficult to cope with.
You can not squeeze out red, inflamed and painful acne, it is better to give them a couple of days, carefully using the point means. So they either pass themselves, or turn into non-inflammatory acne, which can be painlessly squeezed out. If the pimple is not squeezed out easily from the first two “clicks”, then it is better to leave it for another day or two. If it is squeezed out, then squeeze it out with clean fingers, wrapped in a napkin, or two cotton pads. Do not squeeze pimples with nails and do not pick them. Do not press on the pimple itself, press on the skin next to it. And after you finish, treat the wound with an antiseptic: suitable means with salicylic acid, alcohol or pharmacy "Zindol."
What brands to pay attention to
Almost every brand, regardless of philosophy and value, has a line of products for acne skin. But not everyone is effective. The explanation is simple: effective means can not only help but also harm, and it is easier for mass cosmetics manufacturers to release a weak but safe means than working, but with possible risks. We have chosen brands whose products will prove useful in the care of acne skin.
One of the very few Korean brands that use effective concentrations of active ingredients in cosmetics. Korean cosmetics are usually ritual entertainment, but this brand is serious about skin. What is at least an incredibly popular lotion with salicylic acid.
Not very popular pharmacy brand with a "transparent" approach. The concentration of the active ingredients is written directly on the packaging, and it is very convenient. SVR textures are not always pleasant, but you can suffer for the result. By the way, it will appear gradually, because the brand adheres to the "do no harm" approach and makes soft means that cause less irritation.
A popular pharmacy brand, about which not everything is clear at first glance, but if you study a little money, then everything falls into place. The line for problem skin Sebium turned out to be balanced and pleasant: products with active ingredients contain the right concentrations, and cleansing and moisturizing products help the skin withstand the treatment.
Canadian cosmeceutical brand that makes successful products with acids and retinol, mild cleansers and decent moisturizers. Especially pay attention to serum with salicylic acid 2CRM Sal and gel with retinol SRX.
Expensive, but very effective and well formulated cosmetics. Here only ingredients with proven effectiveness are used, and the formulas of the products are very soft and well thought out. At the same time, serums and lotions almost do not irritate the skin, and their sunscreens are among the best in the world.
You can somehow relate to what is happening inside Deciem, but it is impossible to deny that The Ordinary is making successful cosmetics in terms of price and quality. Yes, the formulas here are too simple and often irritate the skin, but they still work. And if you compensate for the effect of serums with the right supportive care, they can be excellent helpers in the treatment of acne.
Paula Runner's brand seems to be growing already completely uncontrollable, and now there is little left of the initial position of "no nonsence". But cosmetics are still cool: salicylic acid lotion is still one of the best. And the cosmetics for inflammatory but sensitive skin Calm. Now funds can be bought at Amazon and Skin City.
"Cosmetics from a dermatologist" - this is not the most noticeable, but still a trend. There is more trust in such cosmetics: as a rule, there are people who understand what works and what doesn't. Dermatologist Dennis Gross strongly believes in peels and retinol, and therefore all the cosmetics he has built around them. You can buy at Cult Beauty, for Russians, 20% is automatically deducted from the cost.
Another brand of the doctor, but this emphasis on peels is no longer there, and the line seems more balanced. Here all the same acids and retinol, regenerating creams, products with vitamin C. Special thanks to Dr. Murad for making acne products specifically for the body. Murad cosmetics are not yet sold in Russia, but you can buy them on Feelunique or at any Sephora store if you find yourself abroad.
The brand, created by the author of the already abandoned blog The Acid Queen, makes cosmetics, which, for some reason, it does not occur to large manufacturers. That only is Liquid Gold cream, for which, it seems, there is not a single negative or at least neutral feedback. In addition to the outstanding cream Stratia release a mild acidic remedy with almond acid, which is great for those who have sensitive skin with a small amount of rash.
The London brand makes simple acids - salicylic, lactic and glycolic, a mild cleanser and several creams. There seems to be nothing outstanding here, but that is the point. In the treatment of acne, it is important not to go through with cosmetics, and this brand offers the necessary minimum. The star of the line is salicylic acid, which is excellent for black spots and point inflammations.
What else can you help
The fact that acne is important to support loved ones and the help of a psychotherapist, began to talk in the middle of the last century. But this problem still does not seem to be serious enough for people to refer it to a specialist. And it is in vain, because acne seriously affects self-esteem and provokes stress, which, in turn, also contributes to the development of acne. Of course, one should not expect that the sessions with a psychotherapist themselves will relieve you of acne, but if you feel that the disease affects your sense of self, you should definitely contact a specialist.
In adolescence, many were told that acne should not be smeared, but cured. But these are not mutually exclusive actions. And if you are uncomfortable to walk with “bare” skin, then, of course, you should use tonal means. Svetlana Korotchenko talks a lot about those who hide acne well on her channel Atevisss. In addition, YouTube has a mass of intelligent tutorials, which can be used to learn to mask acne and post-acne traces so that the skin still looks natural.
Photo:Claudio Divizia - stock.adobe.com, Stillfx - stock.adobe.com, Piluli (1, 2, 3, 4, 5), The Ordinary (1, 2), Ultraceuticals, Rejudicare (1, 2), Paula's Choice ( 1, 2), Bravura London, CosRX (1, 2), Girlfriend, Luxfarma, La Roche-Posay (1, 2), Yandex.Market, Lumene, CeraVe (1, 2), Stratia, Holika Holika, Bioderma, REN Clean Skincare, Eucerin, Innisfree, Sephora, SVR (1, 2), Sifo