Grunge, natural, minimalism: Trends from New York Fashion Week
Fashion Week in New York, the first of the four main, died down, as it should be: activist statements on the podiums took shape in a clear current, women with a mastectomy appeared at the shows, and there were more and more theatrical shows. It will be possible to talk about future autumn trends later, but in New York one obvious thing emerged: there were fewer bright and complex make-ups. However, there were some interesting exits too - but it did without the omnipresent dark lipstick.
The average temperature in the hospital is a natural make-up, but within its framework one could see not only traditional schemes. At the Erin Fetherston show, lipsticks of conventional colors were applied only in the center of the lips, leaving the contour intact: whether spring mood or long-playing Asian trend. Bright coral and wine shades went beyond the contour of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. Gipsy Sport has lipstick smeared all over her face in support of the unformatted aesthetics of the show. Of course, it won't go to the masses, but for a big fashion this is a very effective choice.
Once again, we were convinced that if there is an unkillable classic in modern make-up, then this is she - look at how Gabriela Hearst generously selected this part of her face. True, there are options: for example, at the Altuzarra show, many models came out with "translucent", slightly lightened eyebrows, something similar was shown by Mary Katrantzou. However, spectacular graphic "strings" from the past six months more than once appeared in beauty editorials, and wide eyebrows for podium makeup are simply comfortable and functional (easy to make, but even visible from the last row), so discontent can be postponed.
Even here, everyone worked under the motto "the simpler, the better": the most "gloomy" version with a black mucous and contoured eye contour was Alexander Wang. In Narciso Rodriguez, a similar scheme was shown again within the framework of leading naturalness - the eyes were slightly marked with light brown shadows. The most impetuous Smokey this time seen at the Brandon Maxwell show. In general, we say goodbye to clear lines and meet smudges and feathering.
Without a shine, active blush or other types of sculpting: on most of the shows, models came out on the podium with minimally treated leather. Perhaps this is due to the specifics of the season, which is conducive to brevity and tranquility, and perhaps everyone is just fed up with experiments with face modeling. One way or another, the highlighters and bronzers in New York were not in high esteem - we don’t know whether to rejoice or be upset, and wait for what happens next.
Bright (and again, note, not too graphic) spots under the eyebrow of Mary Katrantzou, peach smocks of Delpozo, a muted blue color throughout the eyelid of Derek Lam and a few more or less catchy options. The beauty of the hauta Pat McGrath painted the models at the Anna Sui show with her new product: the makeup with bright blue pigment with glitters, of course, did not go unnoticed. The New York shows were not addicted to shadows, especially color ones, but the first (and last) version is definitely worth adopting to those who disagree with the stingy gray-brown gamut.
If at the spring-summer shows they tried to smash the public with flowers in their hair, various weaving and other complicated hairstyles, then the autumn-winter styling of New York is much more relaxed. Even at those exits where special attention was paid to the hair of models, forms close to natural were in high esteem: Brandon Maxwell's lush manes or strict classics — parting, open face, and collected hair — from Carolina Herrera.
The most interesting make-ups of this Week were made at the Jeremy Scott show: both the “tears” painted by the glitter and the brightly designed lower eyelashes are all quite viable and boring. Make-up with fabric applications from Thom Browne already looks almost traditionally - not a single designer show can do without such fabrications, while the make-up remains a harmonious addition to the overall image. But Val Garland, who was in charge of beauty at the Gareth Pugh show, still managed to surprise everyone with a “spider” eye make-up - difficult to reproduce, but difficult to forget.