California on a cabriolet and skateboard for 21 days
IN RUBRIC ABOUT TRAVEL we talk about the journeys of our heroines. In this issue, Anna Sakharova, a journalist and traveler, how to travel with California to a convertible far and wide, spend a minimum of it and remember the trip for the rest of your life.
Rotate the planet 180 degrees
When I was offered to go to the States, I, despite my passion for traveling, thought: that there might be something interesting there, but later decided that by submitting documents for a visa I would not lose anything but one hundred and sixty dollars necessary to pay the consular fee. . Here, unlike the process of obtaining Schengen, it is impossible to predict whether you will receive a visa in the United States or not - this is similar to a lottery, the gain in which depends on age, gender, marital status, working experience, travel experience and at the same time does not depend from what. We planned to go with five of us - only two people gave us a visa: me and my friend Zhenya. To arouse the confidence of the consuls, I had to pretend to be a couple.
Six months later, in search of tickets and free time, the day of departure has come. I started off, throwing my backpack over my back and holding the board under my arm. We met at the exit of the metro and got on the regular bus number 851, which was going to the airport. He moved at the speed of a snail, sticking along the way to all existing traffic jams. We got on the bus three hours before departure, and when it was an hour and a half before, we still dragged along the slush near Moscow. We were late for a plane, and outside it was raining with hail and snow, and the 851st bus became for us a symbol of everything we were running from: dullness, cold weather, and longing.
We are almost resigned to the fact that the plane, together with dreams of sunny California, flies away without us, when it turned out that the flight was also delayed. The flight to New York lasted about ten hours. For them, Zhenya revised all the films with the Russian translation, I tried to learn English, to secretly take photos with the rabbi, to understand the amoral jokes of the series "It's always sunny in Philadelphia", but I stopped watching cartoons. When we arrived in New York, the second plane to Los Angeles had already flown, and the airline staff put us on the next flight. The flight took about seven hours, which we overslept.
Unauthorized by changing the time zone (in California it was 8 in the evening, and in Moscow it was already 7 in the morning) and by long flights, we took a free bus to the famous Alamo office, which rents out cars, where a pre-ordered convertible was waiting for us. We spent most of it and so funny for the States budget, and I was preparing for the fact that in recent days we will be begging in the area of Hollywood Boulevard. An hour later, we sat in the newest "Mustang" and, collecting the remnants of the forces, rushed to the center of Los Angeles. It was Friday evening, but the downtown was empty. We wandered for about forty minutes and for a well-deserved rest we chose the first place that came to mind - Long Beach. We parked at the lawn overlooking the storming ocean and, hunched over, fell asleep in the car.
First day in the City of Angels
The scorching sun woke us at 7 in the morning, and we headed towards the ocean, stretching our numb limbs. The first passerby wished us good morning, and every next one did the same. We walked along the beach, and huge pelicans flew around us, domestic dogs ran around with frisbees, and sports retirees ran around. At some point, Zhenya pointed out to the ocean, and not far from the coast, and I saw wild dolphins emerge from the water around a slowly windsurfer. It seems here is in the order of things. Five minutes we stood with open mouths.
Exchanging greetings with the locals, we returned to the car and went in search of a gas station, or rather, a refueling store. Having reached the goal, we, in a teenager, settled on the curb next to the parking lot, had breakfast and stared at the gas station visitors: exemplary family men or guys, similar to members of criminal gangs. I ate the contents of two kosher lunches in chests left untouched by one rabbi on the plane, which I appropriated to myself. I always wanted to know what is stored in these boxes. From the edible there were hummus, bun, jam and waffle.
Features of San Diego and its inhabitants
We drove to the center of San Diego and went to explore the streets full of fashionable shops and restaurants. What caught the eye was that the people there are very beautiful, but not the beauty that is implanted from television screens and magazine covers. Every person loves himself, his life, his city - and this is reflected in their appearance. No one hesitates to stand out, so attract local attention is not easy. Some residents look bold, and some do not bother - go to what you have to. At the same time, here, as in other American cities, it is often possible to meet urban madmen thrown on the sidelines of life.
Most American cities have no impressive monuments, and San Diego is no exception. The city is located in southern California, near the border with Mexico, the influence of which is felt in everything: the historic center consists of white houses, hung with sombreros and ponchos, and at every step you can taste tacos for every taste.
It was already dark when we reached the small two-storey house of Cassie, the Trevor girl. He and his friends were waiting for us on the veranda. Together we went to a Mexican cafe nearby. While we were chatting, we devoured huge vegan quesadillas, burritos, and corn chips. They do not know anything about life in Russia, and often they delicately try to explain the obvious, for example, what avocado is. They are super hospitable, they treat us to everything that falls into their field of vision, not accepting objections.
In that eatery, Alex greeted us — a guy with a stern face in Long Sleep Earth Crisis — a friend of our new friends. Later, Trevor said that Alex is a real scumbag, - for several years he jumped from skyscrapers using wing imitation. Just jumped and flew. He did this for a long time, but one attempt was unsuccessful and he broke all the bones. It's hard to believe, looking at this strong guy. "How boring my life is," I thought.
Acclimatization: barakholka, police donuts and wild seals
If on the first morning, waking up on a car stooped in a non-reclining seat, I thought about “what did I forget here?” In my head, then the next morning I had no doubt that this place would remain one of my favorites.
Trevor led us to the flea market. It looked like it should look like an American flea market: a huge parking lot filled with pickups and wagons, sellers - Mexicans in hats or baleen cowboys with beer gizzards, mountains of "Levis", caps, skates and new year decorations. Eugene immediately bought all the cool rarities: "Dr. Pepper" from the 70s in the glass, baseball balls and gloves of the same generation. Consumer fever also swept over me, and I bought an old longboard for $ 30 from a gray-haired rocker. We also managed to find a can of Russian red caviar from the 90s. Did not buy.
Trevor went on shift - he is an emergency doctor. We intercepted the vacant Cassie, and she drove us behind the coolest vegan-style donates in the city, those that Homer Simpson or cops absorb in huge numbers in all American TV shows. After we arrived at the park to Cassie's friends, having fun watching the battles of local Tolkien players. Contemplation quickly weary, and we went to the beach seals. Some time ago, on one of the beaches of San Diego, they began to build a cave-pool for children, but during a break in construction, seals chose this place, and people did not turn them out. Seeing them from afar, I rushed headlong and let out a mean tear, being close by. For an hour, I sat on the beach, drank a nutty drink, looking at the setting sun, rocks and ocean tide, and at arm's length lay a pile of well-fed, friendly, fur-covered, smiling larvae.
Coast and Parks San Diego
For several days we languished from the heat, but did not pay attention to the traditional part of the rest of the Russians. Deciding to fix it, we went to sunbathe on the coast. Despite the fact that in April it was hot here, a piercing wind was blowing from the ocean, and we had to press into the ground so that it would fly past. An hour later, I decided to leave Zhenya to burn in solitude and went to run around a new board along the coast. California's murdered roads destroyed my image of her as a paradise for skateboarders, but longboard barriers were nothing. I was driving fast, but every passerby had time to say hello, wink, give a compliment, or apologize if I was on my way. In the USA, I expected to see the heroes of the show with MTV not burdened with intelligence, but my assumptions were quickly refuted - the people here are intelligent, open and benevolent, in any case, Californians. There are few MTV heroes, but they meet - they make greasy jokes and look indecently. Everyone looks toned, fresh and cheerful: both young and middle-aged people and old people.
Cassie works in the main zoo of the States, and in the afternoon we went there. She gave us invitations, assuring us that animals are cared for at the zoo, some wild animals are rehabilitated and then released into the wild, and I decided that his visit would not be a crime against my conscience. The first thing I saw was pink flamingos without half a wing - a measure so that they would not fly away, and we could look at them and poke a finger. The cells of the animals are small, and the feeling of depression left me only at the exit from the zoo.
In the evening we went for a walk in the picturesque Balboa Park, full of museums and buildings of various architectural styles. They came across the room where the basketball training took place. Dexterous dark-skinned guys aggressively fought for the ball, cut each other and threw it into the basket, while their wives and children sat on the benches waiting for the fans. At home we were at nine o'clock, I sat down to write a note for a magazine and did not notice how I woke up the next morning with the computer in my hands.
Sylvester
Every morning in San Diego, from habitual to local time, began at 6 in the morning with coconut ice cream, peanut butter and donuts. An hour later, Dora's dog, hurrying for a walk, jumped from the second floor with a roar, licked my face and rushed out into the street to look for skunks, dragging Cassie along. Later, Eugene rose, and we went to hang out together or with a neighbor, Sylvester. He joined us one day, clearing the stomach after a night party and expressing a desire to air and show the most beautiful places by the ocean. With him, we tracked crabs, gave our fingers to the ravage of predatory blue sea flowers, talked to seals that responded to other sounds, went to the bike, board, and rock second-hand, fooling around and breaking my new board, trying to make an ollie on it . The board broke in half, but we glued it together and fastened it with iron plates - the methods are extremely unreliable.
Grand Canyon
Day after day, we repeated to each other that it was pointless to describe and take pictures of what is revealed to us in the States — even the most vivid description or photo will not convey a hundredth part of the impressions collected during those days. We were going as slowly as we could to postpone the moment of parting with the guys, but more was waiting for us ahead - a trip to the Grand Canyon. At night we drove up to it along a narrow dark road, and in the light of the headlights on the sides, deer eyes, horns, tails and butts flashed from one side to the other. Stopping ten miles from the canyon, we again went to bed at our mobile home.
In the morning, as usual, we had breakfast on the curb and went to the park. Parked near the lookout and on the boards came to the edge of the world. It is difficult to give this description. As if the earth had cracked and spread at the seams. Standing on the edge of a huge canyon and trying to cover its part, accessible to the eye, you realize how pitiful a short human existence is against the background of something so powerful. All day long we were hanging off cliffs, wandering around mosses and stones, trying to hunt down deer, lynxes, mountain goats, or lions in the footsteps of the feces left by them here and there. Met a thin venomous snake. They walked all alone - the tourists do not move away from the designated areas farther than a hundred meters. For several hours we were lying in sleeping bags on the precipice and met the sunset there. The next day it became crowded - it was Saturday, and it was time for us to move on. On the way out of the park, the deer we were looking for there itself crossed our path.
Hoover Dam and Lake Mead
Not 30 miles to Las Vegas, we stopped at a Boulder motel. His mistress said that this is not just a small town, but a significant place - next to it is the Hoover Dam, which overlaps the Colorado River. I had to include it in my plan. The dam looks impressive, but we were no longer surprised, and after wandering next to the tourists, we drove on. While we were dodging along the road, choosing a path, a mountain goat ran out to meet the car. He was wild and fearful, and Zhenya, contrary to the ban on feeding wild animals, threw a loaf of sour bread at him, which did not interest the goat eating the flowers and leaves.
We went to Lake Mead, formed by blocking the water dam. The blue lake, surrounded by canyons, hit the beach with waves, large as if sea, and ducks were swinging peacefully on them. In it, cold, I floundered right in the clothes. On the shore, Zhenya met me with the words: "The lake stinks," and with a contemptuous look. It really smelled of stagnant water.
Vegas
“If only I could not wake up tomorrow with a tattoo on my face in prison for a robbery and not get married at night,” I thought on the way to Las Vegas. We arrived there in the middle of the day. There is no trace of Californian friendliness in it - only employees of places of entertainment are friendly. The city embodied the negative image of America: the contrast of luxury and poverty, rude faces, vulgar girls, gangs of aggressive adolescents. Dirty, the wind drives garbage, consisting of packs of fast food. We were pursued by a dark guy, he was everywhere we were, even when we tried to outwit him. I had to hide in the store - the guy waited a bit and left.
Sitting at the coffee shop, we watched her employee trying to open her car - he left the keys in it. He tried to get them out of the cabin with a wire through the gap in the door. Zhenya offered him help, then another guy came up - and together they managed. It seems there are no obstacles for Eugene to help someone, then even the lack of English knowledge didn’t stop him.
As darkness fell in the city, more and more lights, bright and beautiful, caught fire. It looked colorful, but artificially, like fun, for which people go to Vegas. We walked along the main street, occasionally entering huge casinos, spying and laughing at Chinese pensioners at the slot machines. I also decided to try. Everything went according to the standard scheme: first, I won, and then I lost all the cash I had with me - 9 bucks. I shouted at the machine, rushed a purse, and his wife had to pacify me. In the rest of the evening we, like schoolchildren, looked at the figured croupiers and casino dancers, climbed to the top of the highest hotel, building themselves successful Americans.
We were lying on the lawn of the hotel, and the tired Zhenya asked to take him to the car on a trolley standing next to him from the supermarket. She leaned and strove to go to the roadway. Noticing this, we decided to help a dark-skinned boy passing by. He was surprised and with cries of "Wow, this is the real love!" said that his wife would never agree to carry him in a cart. He was even more surprised when he learned that we were not a couple. Then he just walked by and talked out loud about love.
Death Valley
One evening in an artificial city was enough for us, and we went to the Sequoia National Park, the road to which lay through Death Valley. I do not know what we expected to see, but apart from sand, stones and unbearable heat there was nothing there. It bothered us after twenty minutes of contemplation. After passing a short distance, we noticed that the entire surface around was white. Zhenya suggested that it was salt. To check, I had to taste the salt. Previously, on the place of the desert was a lake associated with the Pacific Ocean, but it dried up and the salt remained. I gathered it in a cap and then salted the tomatoes.
For a long time we drove along mountain serpentines and deserts, dry spines every minute were replaced by stones, which after were replaced by colors of all shades. Sequoia rode through the orange groves to the park of giant trees, and when we arrived at the park at night, it seemed that we were in a magical forest.
Sequoia Magic Forest
The road to the forest lies through the mountains, steep serpentines, and near the mountain river flows rapidly. After the canyons and deserts - a breath of fresh air, especially since the forest has exceeded our expectations. The trunk area of each adult sequoia exceeds the area of my room, the area of General Sherman, the largest tree on earth, is 31 square meters. m - almost my one bedroom apartment. The age of each adult tree is about two thousand years. Half a day we kicked giant bumps, chased lizards and poked around in the snow. When we returned to the car, Zhenya unexpectedly fell asleep, and I decided to walk alone. I climbed mountains, hills and huge rocks, jumped on dry branches and stopped at the edge. Всю прогулку я предавалась размышлениям вслух, что на опушке приобрело вид полноценного монолога. В течение часа я ходила туда-обратно по стволу упавшего дерева и громко философствовала. Когда монолог подходил к концу, за спиной я услышала оглушающий треск, нарушивший идиллию моей опушки. Я обернулась и в двадцати метрах от себя увидела двух медвежат, взбирающихся на дерево, под которым их, видимо, стерегла мама.The realization that within an hour I was noisy near bears immobilized me for a moment. I jumped up and ran like a marathon runner, jumping over forest obstacles, gripped by fear and joy at the same time. We left the forest of redwoods in the evening, going to the next point - Yosemite National Park, having previously robbed an orange grove on a box of fruit.
Yosemite
We did not have the strength to go to the last park. Every day in the States we discovered something new for ourselves, and the state of constant surprise began to grow into habit and fatigue, but still we decided not to deviate from the plan.
In words, the description of the wonders of local nature looks monotonous, but not because I am a bad storyteller, but because there are no words to describe these places. All day we rode on the boards along small paths in a green valley among mountains and waterfalls, we were chased by the free-walking deer Bambi. These miracles are already common, so I repeat: we rode among the rocks, waterfalls and deer. We were intoxicated by what was happening and behaved like children: we ran, touching rare tourists, laughed for no reason, jumped and danced without stopping. Returning from the park to the car, we found a dying brazier and arranged a barbecue on it of Mexican flatbread and beans overlooking a waterfall.
Vince, Rances and Ross
We spent a week between Auckland and Berkeley with Vince, whom I found on couchsurfing, and his friends. Vince is one of the most amazing people I've met. Immediate, as a child, a bully, a traveler, a mountaineer, he works in a trade union, supervising the working conditions of workers, and plans to become a mayor. For each case, he has a million stories, my favorite - about his trip to Russia. Together with a friend, not knowing a word in Russian, in the winter he traveled from Moscow to China, studying every backwater of our country. The police several times wanted to steal his passport, gopnics tried to rob him in Perm - as he called them, in a passing village a vulgar snow maiden aged sticking to him, and on the border with Mongolia, starving for two days because all the shops were closed on New Year's holidays, stole a bag of tea from the police and tried to eat it secretly from his friend.
He said that he wanted us to leave his house with the confidence that this was the best place on earth, and stubbornly went towards the goal. He spent time free from political activity with us, inventing entertainment. Even if we were not hungry, he forced us to eat vegan burgers, pizza and smoothies, drove to concerts, drove to San Francisco and outside the city. We went to his friends on the Tahoe - a blue lake among snow-capped mountains, waterfalls and forests. They live in a spacious wooden house on the edge of the forest with two giant Labradors, the largest of which became my pillow and heating pad in a dream.
Vincent finds a common language with absolutely everyone. One of his best friends, the Dominican Rances, is selling cannabis. During the week we were here we put him on a skate and inspired him to become a vegetarian - he ate the last chicken wings in his life with us. Rances has a clever cat named Kaliza, who goes on a mountaineering trip with him.
They have another neighbor, Ross, a languid, silent guy, also a climber. Together they made our days unforgettable, and I do not remember that I left a place with such regret as Auckland.
Last day in the City of Angels
The last day of our trip, we spent in Los Angeles with a local skater-intellectual Rob, driving around his city in his car. A few hours before departure we had fun in his house, like a luxury hotel, jumping in the open air from the jacuzzi to the pool and back. Zhenya and Rob hid in the house, and I, floating on my back under the starry sky and trying to summarize the trip, for the thousandth time admired how dreams, aspirations, desires and even jokes of people living in different parts of the world look like, regardless of state , mentality, language and political propaganda.
