Where to buy a coat: 12 Russian brands of successful outerwear
BEGIN YOUR BUSINESS IN THE FRAMEWORK OF TODAY'S RUSSIA'S REALITY - Prezlozhnoe enterprise, especially if it concerns the production of clothing, shoes or accessories. In a series of materials we talk about young local brands united by a certain segment: leather stuff, underwear, shoes or basic things.
For a young coat brand, the segment is both simple and complex. Simple because in the realities of Russian reality they are bought often and eagerly: fur coats are expensive and unethical, while beautiful down jackets are found only as exceptions. Difficulties begin with production moments. Such things are an example of higher design aerobatics, which means that they are expensive and time-consuming, which can become a serious problem for young brands.
Secondly, the Russian light industry does not like good wool, cashmere and their blended variations, because of the increased euro rate, fabrics from France and Italy inevitably increase the prime cost of a coat, and Turkey, which has rescued many designers for a long time, now has almost no opportunity to export to Russia And yet there are a number of Russian brands that manage to find a way out of this situation. We talk about those who make beautiful and comfortable things that are worth the money and definitely deserve your attention.
osome2some
About the pair of Anna Andrienko and Natalia Buzakova, it seems, even those who are not too closely following the emergence of the fashion industry in Russia: their brand osome2some, which appeared in St. Petersburg in 2009, became the first domestic brand that made itself a reputation for its coat . The first hit model was the classic camel-colored coat, but over the years, Anna and Natalya greatly expanded the range, significantly improving the basic clothing category. And yet their coats are still the coat - minimalist, versatile, high-quality and at relatively affordable prices (prices for osome2some outerwear range from 17 to 40 thousand rubles).
Both designers have been sewn since childhood, their education is economic, and the subtleties of cut helped the girls to understand Fumie Kimura - designer Alexander McQueen, whom they were lucky to meet on the market in London Camden. From the very beginning, the duo focuses on high-quality fabrics: almost all of their coats are sewn from natural wool (sometimes with strange admixtures like polymers), and Anna and Natalia are most often used as lining for viscose.
Previously, things osome2some were more accessible, but two years ago we visited our favorite mass market stores with a much lighter heart: the brand works on imported fabrics from France and Italy (many are custom-designed by the brand) and, according to the designers, all forces trying to restrain prices for their things. As before, coats are sewn in Petersburg, but recently osome2some has its office in Moscow. If you are looking for a coat "for the ages" that will survive all possible changes of trends, you are here.
Outlaw Moscow
Maxim Bashkaev and Dilyara Minrakhmanova launched the Outlaw Moscow brand recently - in the summer of 2014 (as the headline suggests, in Moscow). Their bright androgynous coats were noticed at once, and in general, the duo’s situation is more than enviable: in less than two years of work, he has his own show-room in the capital, a contract with Tsvetnoy, talks with buyers from Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong and winning the competition Fashion Film Awards.
"We just meet and dress people who share our ideas and outlook on life. In addition, we shoot films, make photo projects about outlaw people, try to talk about talented creative people who reflect our vision. For us it’s important not only to expand sales and fame , and to unite good people through art ", - Maxim and Dilyara tell, and such an approach, when building a whole philosophy out of the brand, is very pleasant. You can join it if you do not save on outerwear: the price of a coat starts from 45 thousand rubles. But everything is very beautiful.
Shi-shi
This brand is a clear proof that the Russian fashion is breaking through by a fragile snowdrop from under the asphalt and outside the two capitals. Yulia Shinkareva founded the Shi-Shi brand in Nizhny Novgorod: by the age of 24 she was tired of working in a construction holding company and she began to sew, while attending various specialized courses. It was a little more than two years ago, and now Julia understands exactly where her mark is moving: “We don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Our things should be practical, minimalist, with a little twist - it can be either in fabric, in a style, or in embroidery. We mix styles a little: almost every model of our clothes can be worn with both flat shoes and heels. We can sew anything by the standards of the client: we are all different, and often those who cannot find themselves clothes in mass markets go to us. If a client is from another city, then we are old We’ll be able to determine its size as accurately as possible so that the deported thing is not only liked, but also surely fits. " At the same time, the prices do not exceed the cost of clothes from the conditional Zara: they keep within 5-15 thousand rubles.
The coat itself is a masterpiece of Julia, thanks to which Shi-Shi packages go not only to Moscow and St. Petersburg, but also to other countries (and in a very substantial amount). For only 15 thousand rubles, you can become the owner of a Shi-Shi robe made of natural cashmere in one of six colors. Optionally, it can be decorated with embroidery with a tulip - this option has become the hallmark of the young brand. Yulia admits that her brand has as many problems as everyone else: expensive fabrics, complex logistics, and third-party showrooms take Russian products only for sale. And yet, Shi-Shi is doing well, and very glad that this is possible in different cities of Russia.
I am studio
The Moscow brand I AM studio has been around for a long time, it keeps within the framework of the chosen minimalistic vector, and the coat is only a small part of its range. The brand has never positioned itself as an expert on outerwear, and this trend developed in parallel with all the others. However, we could not say anything about these coats: they are very good for the design team. Unlike other young brands, I AM studio sews them in unbanal colors, so this brand is worth paying attention to those who are already fed up with black, gray and beige coats.
Fabrics for outerwear are used blended, but the ratio of wool and synthetics in them is about 4: 1. A significant plus is a calm, laconic design: the brand does not flirt with fancy textures, does not abuse the decor, and bypasses the bright accessories. Coat prices start from 16 thousand rubles and reach 26 thousand, but I AM studio often has sales, and now, for example, an olive wool coat can be yours for 8100 rubles. And this, we recall, today is equal to a hundred euros.
Luda nishishina
Luda Nikishina has been engaged in her brand since 2008 - the coat became the main element of the brand even then. However, everywhere they started talking about her as a young talented designer last winter. The fact is that Luda feels good not only in the coat segment, but also in the field of outerwear in general, and in 2015 her llama fur coats in shades of pastes flashed on the pages of all possible glossiness - from Grazia to Vogue. If fur coats and sheepskin coats made of natural fur are not ideologically suited to everyone (although they are certainly beautiful), then there are no questions to the coat of Luda Nikishina: they work out great for a girl. The designer offers a fairly large variety of models, uses wool, cashmere, mohair and an angora for them and is not afraid to move away from ordinary coats.
"A few years ago, we almost completely switched to outerwear. We try to continually diversify the model and color range within several of the most popular silhouettes: oversized, straight classic, coat-dressing gown with a belt. Next we play with color, proportions, length. We sew everything ourselves in Moscow, in our workshop in Trihprudny Lane. Therefore, we have a very individual approach: you can always order a coat according to your own shape or fabric of the color you dreamed of for a long time, ”says the designer of the brand. Coat prices start at 18 thousand rubles and reach 32,500.
all.we.need
In the assortment of the brand all.we.need you will not find designer masterpieces: the models of the brand are very simple and few. But they have a coat in all possible colors and shades, prices start at an acceptable 14 thousand rubles, and the wool content in their fabrics is at least 80% (this is a fundamental point, in different cases there can be angora, alpaca, cashmere, silk, polyester). In general, this is a typical Instagram-brand, but it does not make it worse. So if you want to get a new spring laconic coat of the color of flamingo feathers or a hint of violet ice cream, but are not willing to spend thousands on it, then this brand is definitely worth a look.
Belucci
The designer component of the Belucci brand may be losing the rest of the items on our list: it’s not very fashionable, often even overly conservative coats. But you need to understand that the objectives and scope of this brand are completely different. His things are designed for a much wider, including adult audience, they are sewn off in industrial volumes and do not pretend to be a place in Alex Chang’s wardrobe. Therefore, with the seeming "ordinary" Belucci is a happy exclusion from the host of large Russian clothing brands: they make practical and decent clothes, for which love does not require special education. They sew these coats from Italian fabrics, which are dominated by wool and cashmere, in Russian factories. The prices of the brand are very pleasant (on average, 7-13 thousand rubles), and the size range and assortment are wide: at Belucci, if you wish, you will find a coat for yourself and for your mother. The brand is exclusively represented in the shops of Podium Market.
Amano
The Moscow brand Amano is almost ten years old, and if you like to travel on trips to find small but remarkable British / French / Spanish and other brands, then you have their worthy Russian equivalent. Tatiana Kruchenykh, founder and designer of Amano, builds her business herself to the last button: first, she sewed every thing on her own, now carefully controls production and emphasizes that even now she adheres to the principle “one thing - one tailor” - according to her, this is how clothes come out "more humane."
A personal approach and a relaxed attitude to things are, perhaps, the concept of the brand: “We produce simple, urban, practical clothing made from natural materials. How does this differ from what others do? Yes, nothing. All of these brands have approximately the same path: everything they want to dress people and, of course, earn money. I don’t have a classical design school, I don’t know how to create collections “correctly. I’m just doing what I’d like to wear by myself”, says the designer. Amano has several models of base coats, but this is not the strength of the brand: Tatiana makes so many complex, asymmetrical, often - deconstructive outerwear items. Prices rarely reach 20 thousand rubles, and you can buy a coat in the show-rooms "Khokhlovka" and Trёshstore.
I'll be back
Veronica Miller took up the brand I'll be back in the fall of 2011, and in her assortment, as is the case with several other items from this list, there is no emphasis on the coat. But the girl admits that she pays a lot of attention to outerwear for obvious reasons: in Russia this thing is extremely popular. The designer has made a lot of models for any season, so if you need to be minimalistic, diverse and multicolored (one brand has 8 different options for the brand), we advise you to carefully study the online store I'll be back.
Fabrics of the brand are mostly natural, but, according to Veronica, affordability is one of the main points for her, so the brand also has synthetic materials at more affordable prices. They are bought all over the world, except for China: Chinese fabrics do not suit Veronika in quality, and decent samples, taking into account delivery and metering, are too expensive. As a result, the upper limit of the cost of a coat is 30 thousand rubles, the lower one varies: now, for example, you can buy a summer cotton coat I'll be back for 4,650 rubles at a discount.
Shlitza
"I remember exactly that at the age of five I already dreamed of becoming a designer - since childhood, when my mother, a journalist, took me to shows of collections of Russian designers. I was inspired and fascinated by this world. And the four years that I spent in Scandinavia influenced to my tastes and reflected on the chosen aesthetics in the future. In the fourth year, after numerous practices, participation in creative contests and the first experiments on showing models of clothes on the catwalk of the Textile Institute, the idea to create your brand appeared, "says designer and founder Elena Mozha Islands, which launched the brand Shlitza in 2010. The girl chooses high-quality and natural fabrics (in the case of a coat, this is most often wool), prices remain adequate: yes, sometimes there are items in the Shlitza range of 20 thousand rubles, but usually it is 10-15 thousand.
Elena is best at voluminous soft models with hidden fasteners or even without them (the theme of coat-gowns will never exhaust herself, but the range is not limited to them). The color range of Shlitza, as a rule, is restrained, but in the spring collection of the brand there is, for example, a coat of very beautiful sky-blue color (we recommend).
Oh my
Strictly speaking, the well-known Russian brand of basic clothes Oh, my model has only one coat, and that appeared in the assortment almost the day before yesterday. But this brand has long established itself on the positive side, so that if it masters the outerwear segment, we will only be happy. This is the only coat in the male and female versions (they look the same), it has a classic cut and is made of blended fabric (wool 65%, polyester 30%, cashmere 5%). It costs not much, but not a little - 14 990 rubles. Sounds like a reasonable choice.
| f o rma and |
As the saying goes, last but not least: | F o rma a |, created by Tatyana Sukhova and Elena Glukhova in 2013, is a worthy young brand of basic clothing. From the first collection, the girls are focusing on the coat and for almost three years of active work they have already filled their hands on this item of clothing. The models they get are very harmonious, relevant, and it is unlikely that someone will turn their tongues to say that the duet is after the simplicity of the designs - designers don’t have an almost architectural sense of proportions. Tatiana and Elena are not afraid of bright colors and complex details, which, without due care, are easy to burn, and the result is really awesome. Their clothes cost from 18 to 36 thousand rubles - for a design coat made of wool is emphasized, cashmere and alpaca are not so much.