Kiev Fashion Days, part II: What Ukrainian designers showed
From 17 to 20 October in Kiev The second Ukrainian Fashion Week was held - Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days. Wonderzine editors Rita Zubatova and Liza Kologreeva went to the show to review the collections of the most promising designers in the country (which, by the way, supports Fashion Scout platform one by one) and talk about their new shows. In the second report - Sasha.Kanevski, Anna K, Paskal, Omelya Atelier and RCR Khomenko.
Anna K
Designers-geeks can be counted on the fingers of one hand, and, perhaps, Anna Kolomoets refers to them. The girl is 17 years old, this year she showed a collection on the Fashion Scout London platform together with more experienced colleagues Anton Belinsky, Yasey Minochkina and Yasey Khomenko. It fully demonstrates the lineup on MBKFD. Perhaps because of the age of the designer, it seems to us that her clothes are connected with the desire to be an adult and childishness. For example, dresses made of fully transparent fabric are decorated with many ruches, strict silk overalls are covered with fur seals, and tight tops and shorts are complemented with elbow and knee bandages. Kolomoets manages the base - organza shirts, extra-short velvet panties and raincoats (which is commendable). The collection is quite good, especially considering the young age of the designer, but there are a lot of rough edges in it, like, say, in any student work. Some things are too overloaded with details - such as a striped dress with an almond-shaped transparent insert, some do not carry any semantic or practical value - like tops and mini-skirts made of plastic. Hopefully, Kolomoyets will part with them from season to season.
Sasha kanevski
Obviously, when Sasha Kanevsky addressed the folklore topic last season, he left the comfort zone and did not lose: the collection came out unexpectedly harmonious. This time, the designer returns to the favorite topic of futurism - it can be traced in prints: those with aliens and bananas, a tribute to the era of the toggle switch and, further, in the 1990s, look ironic, but the eye already gets tired of symmetrical optical ones , for whatever reason, everyone loves - from beginners Khomenko and Linnik to local veteran Kanevsky by local standards). On the show, many things are distracting from the actual clothing: green hands, nuclear combination of things, turbans that came here, it seems, by chance, and make-up boys-models (well, really, stop painting them as girls, but rather arrange street casting - sure: Sasha's friends and he himself would have looked much more harmonious in these clothes). But let's abstract from the show and look at each thing separately: these are asymmetrically tailored shirts, gradient shorts of the correct length and men's skirts, bustier tops with cups (we didn’t see anything like this) and raincoats - they are worthy of special praise and could easily appear in youth Mackintosh lines. The problem seems to be only in the styling and the designer's protracted fascination with the theme of the future - when, obviously, the present Kanevsky feels much better (this can be seen from the digital prints in this collection and the embroidery with cats in the previous one). It turns out, it is small. There is no lack of ideas.
RCR Khomenko
Yasya Khomenko has chosen a difficult path: she creates things from vintage fabrics and releases collections when she collects enough materials. By the spring-summer season, she sewed a dozen items. These are dresses with lions, giraffes and elephants from cartoons, jackets with vintage cars and a suit with the emblems of the Rangers football club. The clothes look modern (if you are not yet bored with bright prints) and are well stitched, but not perceived as part of a single collection: Khomenko uses different prints and repeats except in a cut of volumetric sleeves and skirts gathered around the waist. Remember at least the organza dress that closed the show - the material appeared in the show only in one bow. Perhaps, Khomenko should have arranged not a small show, but a presentation: things could show themselves better.
Omelya atelier
Releasing a line of monochrome sweatshirts a couple of weeks before the show, Kostya Mistletoe seemed to hint - you won't see colors in the upcoming collection either. But even without it, the designer managed to keep the interest of the audience until the end of the show. If the dresses with transparent chiffon were stained against the edge of the rock (and in combination with voluminous shoulders and midi-long, they also killed the model's figure), then black and white with a graphic print can be a potential hit. Tops with volumetric sleeves are a no less commercially successful thing, the main thing in this business is to set a fair price (and with this, young designers have problems). Our favorite is a snow-white suit with a belt referring to Asian culture. Such could be created by Christoph Lemaire, and Kostya Omelya showed. Not bad, not bad.
Paskal
In the new season, a young designer from Odessa, Julia Pascal, shows girls who could have easily become British heroes Simone Roch. These are young and delicate clothes: dresses with multi-layered ruffles, transparent coats, tops and skirts with symmetrical cuts - even their designer can be done without vulgarity, elegantly. Pascal is especially good at perforated things that have already become a trademark: on the silk holding the form and under the transparent organza, the miniature slits look delicately, the quality of work is pleasantly surprising. The only thing that destroys the image - a literal styling. The logic to the banal is transparent: things of delicate colors should be supported with curls, arrows and beige boats - but, obviously, it is worth thinking with the exact opposite. Paskal heroine and sugar girls? No, the discrepancy.