Phoebe English: Neogothic discreet clothing
IN THE WEEKLY RUBRIC "NEW MARK" WE REPRESENT young designers and tell where and how you can buy their things. Our heroine this week is young British designer Phoebe English, who creates things in neo-gothic aesthetics, prefers handicraft and collaborates with Dover Street Market from the first collection.
Talented Englishwoman Phoebe English - from among graduates of the master's course Central Saint Martins, where one of her teachers was the legendary Louise Wilson. And like many Wilson graduates, she founded a personalized clothing brand immediately after graduating from college - in 2011.
Phoebe can be called a textile genius. She likes to combine several differently shaped fabrics in one thing and create materials with her own hands, uses the 16th century English weaving technique and leaves the edges of things unprocessed, easily combines transparent organza and decorative knitting, thick flax, thin muslin, worn dense taffeta, mesh and latex. Despite the intelligence and avant-garde of the brand, the young designer succeeds in wearable things: dresses, skirts, shorts. In the new collection she repeats things and brings the idea of layering to the limit: she puts a shirt on a shirt, a skirt on a skirt, a vest on a vest. Among other things, Phoebe works in gloomy aesthetics and is inspired by the works of Symbolist artists, bulletproof vests, fossils, furniture draperies and utilitarian things.
The potential of the brand and a large number of ideas in the collections were immediately noted by all progressive media - from The New York Times, Vogue, Dazed & Confused, i-D to Style.com and AnOther.com. In addition, in 2012, the designer received the VFS Merit Award for her ingenuity, and Dover Street Market bought her stuff almost immediately, which is a great achievement for the young designer. Behind Phoebe and window dressing DSM in London.
It is no secret that success always depends not only on the designer, but also on his entire team. So, familiar young composers write instrumental music for shows and presentations for Phoebe, Elli Grace Cumming from AnOther Man magazine helps with styling, and fashion illustrator Helen Bullock helps her develop a new collection. Together they created not even prints, but rather abstract ink and paint and ink on the fabric.
The last hand of Phoebe, creative director Rose Easton, plays a significant role in the history of the brand: thanks to her, the brand has new fashion videos every season. At first, Phoebe and Rose held large shows, but, like many young designers, quickly realized their uselessness and high prices and switched to small unusual presentations. Thus, the brand presented the spring-summer collection of 2014 among the mountains of coal, and the new collection of 2015 was surrounded by empty cans. Immediately on the screen of the old TV broadcast an abstract film, and the models appeared in the center of the magic circle, clearly resembling a Wiccan one.
My brand is absolutely not focused on trends or age categories of buyers. Sixteen-year-old girls and women over sixty can put on my clothes, and they are appropriate at a party in West London, and at an important meeting. The design should be suitable for life, and not understandable only to a narrow circle of "pumped" mods. For me it is important that anyone who comes into contact with my things can continue the story himself. Interaction is important. In addition, the work on the presentations of the collections deserves no less attention than the creation of the things themselves. After all, in the end, you have on your hands the images and images that sell the collection and will be useful for a whole year.
Where to buy things Phoebe English
Designer items can be found in stores around the world. So, it is sold in London, New York and Japanese Dover Street Market. Phoebe English can be found in several stores in Tokyo, Los Angeles, Rotterdam and Paris. Soon the designer will earn an online store.