Military

In the constant rubric "Tendency" we closely look at trends that in one way or another affect our appearance every six months, but we reflect on them in the context of more significant trends.

Another material "Military" - about why in the autumn-winter season, the model Givenchy, Stella McCartney and Rochas are similar to the war times of World War II.

Text: Liza Kologreeva

Why did the military come back

Military is one of the most obvious themes in current collections. Fashion reflects politics, society and economics, so that the enthusiasm of designers for militarism can be linked to the current armed conflicts in Israel, Pakistan, Syria and other eastern countries. Well, as a last resort, with love to refer to history, including military. Under the influence of the present and the past, Bottega Veneta and Givenchy produce models in strict knee-high coats and knee-high boots, Antonio Marras experiments with camouflage, and Isabel Marant and Salvatore Ferragamo show their interpretation of overcoats. There are also brands whose militarism is part of DNA: for example, A.F. Vandevorst and Giorgio Armani.

From left to right, from top to bottom: shooting by Stephen Meisel; advertising campaign Salvatore Ferragamo FW 2012; photo from tumblr; Marilyn Monroe; shooting of Tina Luther; Mario Testino shooting

The history of the influence of war on fashion is easy to trace. From the French officers of the XVIII century, we got epaulettes. During the Crimean War, the first baron, Raglan Fitzroy, Somerset invented raglan, and the English general, James Cardigan, a cardigan. Burberry dressed the British army in trench coats, sailors popularized duffle koats, Spanish and French soldiers wore berets en masse in World War I. Designers are still inspired by double-breasted jackets and a coat for a pair with high boots, as if from the outfits of World War II (then the leading designers did not cooperate with the Nazis from outside without pressure). Immediately after World War II, military fashions came to naught, but in the sixties, rockers and hippies began to wear things in a military style as a protest against the situation in Vietnam, and since then, military is the second maritime theme.

Military Trends

The trends of the military theme seem rather simple: they are the same double-breasted coats and jackets, khaki and camouflage print, as well as coarse boots and high boots. In rare cases, on the catwalks flashed trousers of coarse fabric with a lot of patch pockets and brooches in the form of orders. The main thing - do not overdo it: even in the image of a military style, it would be good to remain a girl.

MILITARY COAT

Now military style coats can be completely different. Minimalistic and strict, as in the collection of Bottega Veneta (as if they lacked fabric, as happened in wartime). Double-breasted, voluminous and short, similar to those in which models on the Isabel Marant were defiled. Or khaki with patch pockets - such are McQ by Alexander McQueen.

MILITARIST JACKETS

Military jackets in, in general, are not far from the coat: they are dark blue, khaki or black, with large buttons, perhaps even in two rows, and in rare cases with shoulder straps. Salvatore Ferragamo is advised to intercept such a simple belt.

CAMOUFLAGE

Camouflage is more typical for men's autumn-winter collections, and already from there (and from numerous street-style blogs) he moved to the wardrobes of girls. However, the designers of women's clothing came round almost on time: in the spring-summer collection of Antonio Marras, camouflage print is mixed with floral.

KHAKI

In the original, khaki is a sand color, but now this term refers to various shades of green with an admixture of brown. In Givenchy khaki, silk dresses are colored, and Victoria Beckham - sheath dresses.

GROSS BOOTS AND HIGH BOOTS

Rough boots may be associated with informal subcultures, but now they are reminiscent of military uniforms. An alternative to them is simple knee-high boots, similar to those worn by European soldiers in World War II.

Images in the style of military in movies

Of course, the best source of military-style images is films about the war. As a rule, men's ammunition is best shown in them, and women in uniform either do not appear at all or play a supporting role. For inspiration, you can turn to both the classics, for example, Apocalypse Today, Schindler's List and Paths of Glory, as well as to more modern paintings - Inglorious Basterds, Pearl Harbor and Black Book.

Military things in online stores

A shirt or camouflage sweater can now be found in any mass-market, but for a coat with interesting details in the form of large carved buttons and epaulettes or a minimal khaki dress, you can go to the online stores.