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Editor'S Choice - 2024

Russian fashion editors - about the Gucci show

Mikhail Baryshnikov, fashion director, Parlan Publishing House

For quite a long time the house of Gucci, if it was associated with something in my head, it was only with the Russian nouveau riche, or, more precisely, with the women with whom these nouveau riches surrounded themselves. Sex was the main toy and reference point of the House. It worked and, moreover, still works. But now this is not the same sex that was before. Summer 2011 was a clear dedication of Yves Saint Laurent, and I am glad that the influence of this fashion house is once again felt in the collections of Gucci.

Personally, I prefer the minimalist part of the collection, but most of the evening exits will certainly become hits. I am sure that many people missed such luxury as, at first glance, excessive sewing of glass beads with metallized surfaces and deepest cuts. With all its frivolity and overdose of gold, the collection does not look vulgar or defiant. Gucci is definitely experiencing rebirth.

Svetlana Tanakina, fashion editor, stylist

The Art Deco theme dominates the Gucci SS 2012 collection. She was clearly chosen by the designer not by chance, considering the 90th anniversary that the house will celebrate this year. Graphic ornaments and silhouettes of that era are best represented in collection dresses. The rest of the house Gucci too conservative and is addressed to a specific client.

The collection is mainly focused on the evening. Once again, we see different variations on the signature Gucci jacket, which this time is supposed to be worn with trousers. As always, everything is skillfully done, but it does not leave the impression that the creation of collections for this fashion house is a process more mathematical than creative.

Sasha Podporinova, PR Director, Podium

This Gucci collection is inspired from time to time by Art Deco. Floral and animal prints, black and white graphics, beads, fringe and low waistline - a certain symbolism can be traced in everything, since the Gucci brand was founded in 1921. Next summer's palette offers us new shades of color solutions: as if burnt out in the sun, the colors are a little faded. Freida Giannini successfully uses a complex shade of green and brick-orange.

Anna Senina, fashion editor, Tatler

"For the last couple of seasons, Frida Giannini has been creating collections that are doomed to commercial success, and the collection of SS 2012 is a vivid example. I think next year no Hollywood party and red carpet will not do without sexy jazz-dresses with prints in art deco style ".

Irina Chernyak, Chief Editor, Collezioni

Collection about the 20s, Art Deco, luxury cars and skyscrapers. Gorgeous, very fine leather processing in the fringe, absolutely wonderful evening dresses, entirely embroidered with unusual glass beads. But the first part of the collection seemed to me a bit squeezing the figure. A clear cut of hard brocade evidence of this.

Ekaterina Melnikova, fashion director, GQ

I really liked the dresses in Art Deco style, the game with textures and black and white graphics is quite enjoyable. Gold adds unqualified luxury. These dresses are both frank and closed at the same time. Apparently, this is a mystery woman.

Ekaterina Lozhnikova, fashion editor, In Style

The Gucci show began under the awesome German opera singing and took place under sighs, oohs and ahs of the Chinese press, among which I was sitting. One by one, the models came out on the catwalk in things that I thought I had once seen. At some point I even got a little bored - I caught myself thinking that I did not understand what season they were showing. Coming out of the hall, I heard exclamations of admiration from foreign colleagues, and I thought to myself that Frida Giannini could not jump over her high level - the autumn-winter collection. What was my surprise when literally a day later I came to re-see and saw all things close up. Each of them is a work of art in itself: prints in Art Deco style, thinly sliced ​​and trimmed leather under the fringe, and the gold patterns on the dresses turned out to be not chains, but Lurex. Bags, shoes, belts, bracelets, rings - all accessories are thought out to the smallest detail and executed flawlessly. Having looked and felt most of the collection, I was once again convinced that sometimes it is necessary to examine all the details better before chopping off the shoulders.

Questions: Irina Gvatua, Dasha Zhemchug.

Watch the video: Counterfeit Culture Moscow: Inside the Russian Fashion Black Market (April 2024).

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